Hemstitching sewing-machine.



No. 657,40l. Patented Sept. 4, |900. G. H. DIMOND &. W. F. DIAL.

HEMSTITCHING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Jan. 16, 1899.?

.(,No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet l.

No. 657,4ol. Patented sept. 4. |900. G. H. ummm s. w. F. DIAL.

HEMSTITCHING SEWING MAGHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 16, 1899.)

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

wzesses.

. Tm/6721525 Gor eHDzT/wvzc.

mt 657.401. Patented sept. 4, |900. ts. H. mmonntt w. F. DIAL. HEMSTITCHNG SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Jan. 16, 1899.; (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE;

lGEORGE H. DIMOND AND WILBUR F. DAL, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNORS TO THE WHEELER. t WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

OF SAME PLACE.

HEMSTITCHING SEWING-MACHINE..

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters rat-,ent No. 657,401, dated September 4, 1900. Application filed January 16. 1899. I serial Nn. 702,208. (No model.)

i the needle is in the material o the hem, and4 therein the feed has two forward strokes andA one back stroke, the figure of the stitch being that known as a three-stitch Iigure. In that patent the hole oft the hem made by the neezo dle was enlarged by the wigwag motion of the needle. 1898, No. 608,152, we have shown and described a hemstitch sewing-machine wherein the needle-bar and needle have .a-lateral mo- 2 5 tion, so that the needle makes two stitches oft from the hem and one in the hem, and coperating with said needle-bar, which does not have any wigwag motion while in the goods, We have employed a piercer, it entering the 3c material oft" the hem prior to or just in advance of the descent of the needle through the material off the hem, said piercer enlarging the hole off the hem and compacting the threads of the material of single thickness, so 3 5 that the stitch made etfectually binds together the connecting threads, making a stitch resembling substantially the liemstich such as made when the threads of the material have been previously drawn out. In the Patent No. 4o 688,152 referred to the piercer is g-roovedand the needle works in a groove or sprocket of the piercer, and the direction of the feed is al-l ways forward, the stitch being somewhat different from the stitch made in the patent referred to. Our present application is intended as an improvement upon the mechanisms disclosed in the two patents before mentioned, and herein we have so organized the stitch-forming mechanism that the needleevery descent of the needle in the material In the patent granted to us J 1115126,-

through the material of the hein. The piercer,

`while reciprocating once for each stroke of ;the needle-bar, need not have and herein is not represented as having imparted to it any 'iwigwag motion; but on the contrary it remains in the hole, bracing one side thereof,

5 while the needle is being moved toward the hem in its wigwag motion.l

p S0, also, prior to the invention to be herein described a 1na- `chine has been devised and described in United States Patent No. 520,977, dated June 5, 1894, in which a needle connected with a needle-bar is made to descendthrough the material of double thickness and through the material oi the hem of single thickness, and when the needle descends through thematerial of single thickness then and then` only a spreader descends with it and stands in the material of single thickness, said spreader cooperating with the needle to make a larger hole. In that patent, however, provision was `made to arrest the descent of the spreader when the needle descended through the ma# terial of double thickness. In the invention to be herein described we have dispensed with the arresting device to stop the descent of the spreader at every third stitch, as described in said patent, and we have so devised the piercer that it acts at every descent of the needle `through the material of single thickness off 'the hem and through the material of double thickness; but said piercer enters only the material of` single thickness ott the hem. In

the patent last referred to neither vthe needle or spreaderhad any lateral movement what- .ever when standing in the material oft the hem. In practice we lind great advantage to result from the use with a piercer standing in ahole on the hem in the material of single thickness, while the needle also in said material of single thickness oft the hem has given toit a wigwag motion, such provision and: `method of operation improving the appearance of the hemstitch and making it more IOO nearly like that produced by handwerk. We have hereinY shownv the piercer asV actuated by a camentirely independent of the cam .em-

ployed to move the needle-bar gate, Aand ,theVA piercer-bar is actuated vertically, as herein shown, by means independent. of they needle-1 bar;

The features of this invention will be'here inafter described, and pointed out in the claims at the end of this specification.

in section, of; a sewingmachine embodying our invention in one form. Fig. 2 is a top or plan view thereof, partly lin section. is a front end elevation.v Fig. 4 shows two views of the feed-controlling cam-that is,

the cam for moving the feed backWardan'dfmward-while Fig. 5 represents ,in two views the feed-lifting cam.

It will be understoodthat thel bed A, overhanging arm A', the pivoted needle-bar gate C3, needle-bar A4 therein, the needle A5, the stitch, forming mechanism complemeutah thereto, but not `shown under the bed A, Vthe feeding mechanism C, and its actuating B2 B3, connected with the doublecranfkof` the,

main shaft AS-areand may beall asshownin United States-Patent No.` 605,700, soneed notl beherein more specifically describedor illustrated.

. Thel main shaft A3 has applied to it aim-1 eled gear e9, which engagesA a second bevel-l gear e5, having an attached pinion e loose. on

a studeg, and said pinion engages the teethv of a path-cam h, mounted to rotate about a.A

stud h', carried by the overhanging armofV the machinc,lsaid gear having in its face-.ay peculiar cam h2, shaped as shown. in- Fig'. l,

said' cam being so shaped to impart vto the:v needle-While in the material oi thehemandx while the needle is rising from the material,y olf the hem a wigwag motion toward the. hem, so that said needleas it rises from the material after each deseen-tin the material off the hem enlarges the hole in. the materialA off the hem, the wigwag motion bein-g sub` stantially at right angles to thedircction `of the length-,of thehem and acting to pack. or

slipsome of the threads under and toward? the edge of the hem. The face of the needle-vi# brating cam isinpracticecovered by a platee?,

(partially shown in Fig. 1,)`- attached bysuiatr.

ablescrews e4, Said plate beingprovidedy with astri-table slot vthrough which is' extended a studd',.carried by a rocker-armd, connected Y. witha rock-shaft d2, mounted onthetopof. i

Fig. 3"'

. the arm` of the sewing-machine, saidV rockerdle-bar.

. I., groove h2. Figure 1 represents a side elevation, partly armhatvifng a slot or wayd, which receives a sliding or adjustable bolt or stud d4, attached to a link d5, connected at 2 with the' usual needle-bar gate C3, common to said Patent No.. 605,700, said gate carrying the nee- These parts for movingl the needlebar gate laterally are substantiallythesame as in said patent, except as to the shape of the The cam h2 is for the purpose of controlling the lateral movement of the needle-bar gate and needle, and it is rotated in the direction of the arrow thereon',Fig`. 1, and the studd enters'said cam, the latter at the proper times elfes-ting the lateral movement of the needle, as will be hereinafter described. This' cam has two high parts, (marked 3 4L.)y The leading corner 3-of the high part of the cam in` its rotation-.contacts with thestu'd substantially as the needle-bar completes its ascent, and; as: theY said portion acts againstsaid stud the. needle-bar is caused' to descend through the material off thehem, the-needle substantially completing its descent as the corner 3X of said highV part arrives at the stud, and then the-portion 5 of. the. camacts-quickly to tnrnthe gate and move it and .the needlebar laterally, the latter bein-g yet in the vmateri-:ftlfoiV the hemthe needle in. such movement packing orf-pushing the threads of the material toward` the-he m making an: enlarged hole therein. Asthe part 6 of thecam arrives over the-stud d the needle-barl and needlerise-from'` thema-terialoff thezhem and substantially as the. needle leaves the mate- -rial thelastfpartofV the portion 6 of the cam actstofagain move the gate. and needlefbar and needle laterally away from the hem, the needle-bar completin gitsfascents ubstanxtiailly i as the-leading corner of theseco-nd high `part .A'arrivesnat the stud d. As the camcon.- tinfues toi move thel needle-bar and needle again descend, while the high part. 4 of the cam travels opposite. the stud d1, and the .j needle `having descended into the `material the second time off the hem, it being` in the l material as the, rearcorner of the high part -ljtravels-fpastthe stud, the part 7 `of thel cam againacts,asdid the-part 5,1t o move-the needlebar and needle yet in the material olf the hem toward` the hem, andv in the continued further .rotation of the cam h the portion 8 .ofthe cam acts-.on the stud while the needlevbar is rising, the latter, however, rising at Ath-.isi tiimey in:V substantial-ly a straight line, and y inthe further rotation of saidcam h thepart 10.015 the4 cam acts on the stud after it` has iarrow 12, Fig. 1, so that as the needle-bar -descen-ds at. this stroke it penetrateszthe ma- ',terial of the hem, and asthe needlefbar rises y,from the hem the part 13 of the cam 71,` acts on: the stud and puts the needle-bar and its needle by the time that the lead-:ing'point of IIO IZO

ISO

the cam 3 reaches-the stud dagain in a path Where the needle is placed over the material of single thickness olf the hem ready to again descend, as hereinbeforedescribed. `Immediately following the rise of the needle from the material at the hem the feed acts to move the material away from the operator in aforward direction, and immediately following the first rise of the needle from the material off the hem the feed acts to move the material backwardly toward the operator, and immediately following the'third rise of the `needle from the material, this being off the hem, the feed acts again in the forward direction to move the material away from the operator, and at its next descent the needle penetrates the material of the hem.

The needle penetrates the material of the hem once and off the hem twice in a succession and in the production of a three-stitch figure; but this invention is not limitedwto the exact number of stitches made for each the first part of its stroke, this differing some-V what from the plan described in the said patent, for therein the needle-bar had given to it an out-and-back vibration while in the ina- Vterial of the single thickness.

The piercer m, connected with the piercerbar m, having, as herein shown, its bearings in a part of the machine independent of the needle-bar gate, is shown as slotted at its upper end to receive a block m2, mounted loosely upon the end of a lever m3, having its fulcrum on a studm4, said lever having at its opposite end a roller or other stud m5, which is actuated by a second path-cam m, to be described, said path-cam deriving its motion from a pinion m7, connected, as herein'shown, with a bevel-gear m8, actuated by a bevelgear m9, fixed on the main shaft. The parts herein briefly described are found substantially in said Patent No. 608,152; but herein the cam-groove is entirely dierently shaped to insure an entirely-different method of operation in the production of the hemstitch, and we will now describe the novel features in connection with said path-cam. The pathcam herein shown has three high points, soV

that said piercer has one complete reciprocation to each complete stroke of the needlebar and needle. In Fig. l one of the high points has just acted to depress the piercer to its lowest point, and the said piercer is represented as about starting upwardly on its rising movement, and it is at this time or immediately thereafter and While the piercer stands in the materialof single thickness or is rising that the needle-bar is rising as described with its needle and is having imparted to it the lateral movement toward the hem to thereby act upon the threads located between, say, the left-hand side of the piercer and the edge of the hem and separate said threads, packing them by a lateral movement substantially under the hem, such moveinent of the needle while the piercer is in the material effectnally and cleanly enlarging the Y thread-carrying needle, means for reciprocat ing said needle-bar and needle, means for impart-ing to said needle-bar and needle a lateral movementv that it' may penetrate the material in two different vertical planes, said means imparting to the needle-barand needle while the latter is in the material off the hem a lateral motion with relation to the edge ofthe hem; a piercer-bar and piercer, and an independent cam and intermediate devices to operate said piercer-bar and piercer, causing it to descend with each descent of the needle-bar and needle, said piercer, however, entering only the material off the hem and remaining therein while the needle then in` the material off the hem is moved laterally with relation to the edge of the hem, to enable said needle to enlarge the hole in the material, the piercer holding the material from moving with the needle.

2. In a sewing-machine for hemstitching, the following instrumentalities, viz: a needle-bar provided with a needle, a needlebar gate, means to reciprocate said needlebar in said gate, and to impart to said gate and needle-bara lateral movement while the needle is out of the material so that it may be put into position to descend not only through the hem but also through the material off the hem, and to move said gate, needle-bar and needle, causing said needle while.

in the material oif the hem, or rising therefrom, to be moved laterally, a piercer-bar and piercer, an independent cam, and intermediate devices to actuate said piercer-bar at each descent of the needle and needle-bar that the piercer may enter only the material off the hem, said piercer standing in and hold- IOO ingthe material-whilefthe -needleg`inftfhe qinalarge-the 'hole'y th erein.

'cate-said needle;baranl'needle, aniindepend-V j dle-bar and needle `a lateral movement .While 1 said planes, combined withv a piereer--barianilpl terialfofffrthe `hem 2Vis vmoved laterally-toyem;

ent cam, and lmechanism actuated 'therehy't'o l move said needle-bar and Yneedle lateralbfv that iti jmayypenet-rate' the material in two different vertical planes, -the 'needle L"in, 'one f Y its fdescent's entering'thematerial in one Lof?V said planes, Aand in othero'f its descents entering the material inthe other o'f said planes, said cam beingshapedito impart'ftnoj'thenee-` thev needle'is in 'thematerial inthefrstfofff piercer, :and *means to reciprocate 'said ibar and cause the piercer toenter thematerialj only inthe first of'saidplane's at each'descent ofztheneedle-baran'd needle, the lateral movementgvof the needle in the-material"takingjplace while the piercer remains in vthev mate; rial, such lateralmovement of' theneedle l,enlargingthe Ahole made 'iby vjoint, operation of Vtwo'subscribing'Witnesses. ik

" veigenaren;JJ'IMoND.

both the piercer and `the needle, `the threadsv l o'fthe material bei-ng moved vaside and-packed togetherby saidlateralnlovemeni` of l'the needle.y e 11 IV .l ?4.'II1an organizedsewingfmachine, afworksupport tosustain the material, av piercer-'bar `provided'with a pieroer,"meanstofreciprocate saidpiercerbar andicause the piercer topenetratethematerialat ,each descent combined with'afneedleibarprovided with a needle, and

means `co reciprocate said needle tojpen'etrate the mateihand While 'said needle andpierceia are in said material tsoimparb'tao--said-ineedle a lateral Amovement', whereby ,the needle isl actuatedto' enlarge thehole occupied by both the p pierce-r and needle, the piercer; prevent- 'ing' lateral `movement, n"of fthe materialwhile v 'In' testimonywhereofV We have Signed our names'to this specification in the" presence of l l 4o l l 

